Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Afterthoughts

Greetings from the comforts of my bed in sleepy little Westerly, Rhode Island.  This morning, I woke up on the floor of my cousin's dorm room in Copenhagen, Denmark.  I spent an hour and a half on the freezing yet gorgeous island of Iceland, and then came cruising into Boston around midday, from which I headed home to Westerly.  I'd been in Denmark since Friday, after taking a 15-hour train from Prague to Copenhagen, and had the most amazing time with Maddie.  We traversed all over the city, explored Hamlet's castle, and had awesome burgers at a restaurant ironically called Halifax, and I had the first organic hot dog of my life, put my hands in the Øresund (the strait between Denmark and Sweden, where the Atlantic meets the Baltic Sea), and watched Maddie complete her first half-marathon.  Overall, my trip to Denmark was great, though I won't go into too much detail about it.  Here are some pictures that will have to suffice.
Maddie & me above the roofs of Copenhagen.
Nyhavn
At Hamlet's castle with Sweden in the background.
Hamlet's castle.
Sean & Mads running the Copenhagen Half Marathon!
On Wednesday night, my final night in the Czech Republic, Ivan called me and asked if I wanted to grab a beer.  One of his friends was leaving for a year abroad the next day, the same day as me, and so a small group of people wanted to get together for a send-off for the two of us.  I had never met the girl going abroad, and so we started chatting in the pub.  She looked at me and said in Czech, "So I have to ask...why are you here?  Why did you come to the Czech Republic?"  Ivan groaned and said, "This poor guy, he gets asked that question nonstop!"  Some of our friends there started laughing and said, "We all already know the speech.  Should we recite it for you?"

When people usually ask me this question, I say the following, "Well, I always wanted to learn a Slavic language, in fact Russian.  I didn't really like the Russian department at my university, though, so I took German instead.  I studied abroad in Graz, Austria, for a year, and I had a roommate from the Czech Republic.  He taught me a few words in Czech, and I really liked it, so I decided to take it, since there was a Czech course with a professor from Brno at my university in Graz.  I met more people from the Czech Republic and Slovakia, and I came to visit at Christmas, Easter, and in the summer, and just kept coming back."  That's my pretty standard response to this question, and anyone who's spent a little time with me in the Republika can recite it.

I took the train on Thursday to Prague before boarding the night train to Denmark.  I said my goodbyes in Brno, and then was meeting JoEllen for my final Czech send-off.  Before meeting JoEllen, though, I had a few hours to kill and found myself wandering around one of my favorite cities in the world.  Traveling to Prague makes me so incredibly happy, and when I walk the streets, I often find myself smiling for no reason, just caught up in the magic of the city.  I don't even think about where I'm going when I'm in Prague, my feet just know the way, and so I wandered around the Gothic city, once so foreign, now so much like home.  I ended up on Old Town Square, and I decided to take a short rest on a bench.  Despite two quite fat women from Alabama clucking away on the bench next to me, I was able to take in the scene.
Old Town Square
Old Town Square
I was sitting on a bench in the middle of Old Town Square in Prague in the very heart of Europe.  I was sitting in a place that has been visited by residents for hundreds of years.  People were born in the houses around me, people died perhaps in the spot I sat.  Wars were won here, wars were lost here.  Protests were held here, freedom given and revoked.  The city has grown, has changed with time, some things for the better, some things for the worse.  Much like people.

I started to think about my time in the Czech Republic, and the question loomed in front of me, "Why the Czech Republic?"  I knew my standard answer, but that just wasn't quite satisfying enough.  And suddenly, I started to laugh.  I thought about my first time in Prague, feeling completely overwhelmed by the small, cobblestone streets and crazy Czech language, though reassured by being with Czechs.  I thought of walking down the streets with Libor covering my eyes so that I wouldn't see certain monuments, since his cousin who lives in Prague wanted to show me them first.  I thought about my last night in Europe after my year abroad in Austria, spent alone in Prague, already more confident in the city and beginning to feel its secrets revealing themselves.  I thought about returning for my Fulbright year, meeting the people who have now become some of my closest friends, and living with them in Prague for a week.  I thought of drinking a beer with JoEllen next to Old Town Square at Thanksgiving, of standing on Old Town Square with Alex at Christmas beneath the giant Christmas tree.  I thought of showing my mother and aunt my absolute favorite building in all of Prague, hidden on Old Town Square in the heart of chaos.  I thought of sitting at the corner restaurant with my father and his wife, introducing him to svíčková, one of the Czech Republic's national dishes.  I thought of other memories from different places around the Czech Republic, of different people from around the Czech Republic, of different experiences from around the Czech Republic.  And I laughed out loud and had a great time doing so.

My time in the Czech Republic has almost been like living a second life inside my life.  When I first came to the Czech Republic four years ago, I knew next to no Czech and could not communicate.  Instead, I sat in silence and watched those around me.  Slowly, I ventured a word or two, but left it to others to guess what I wanted.  With time, I started to understand a bit of what was going on around me, but still relied on others to communicate for me.  As I grew more confident, I started to act independently, and was rewarded by others understanding me, encouraging me to continue.  With a little bit of education to learn the formal rules, I've reached the point where I am now, a fully-functioning person in the Czech language and culture.  It's a very strange experience to sit in the heart of a beating metropolis that was once completely foreign, strange, and scary, in which you once understood not a single word of what was happening around you, and yet suddenly you are an insider, you know the streets without a map, you speak the language, and you can spy those who are now the outsiders.  It's an even stranger feeling to know that city is the capital of a foreign country, and you are much more familiar with it than the capital of your own country.

These are just some of the reasons I came to the Czech Republic.  The people are so friendly, the culture so fascinating, the language so challenging, the architecture so beautiful, the location so prime, and so on and so forth.  Though I made the decision to return home, both based on poor work conditions and visa complications, I did also want to return home and am happy to be here.  Who can say what the future holds, but either way, the Czech Republic and Slovakia will continue to play a major role in it.
See you soon, Česká republika.

Monday, August 27, 2012

August Recap

Greetings from Brno at the close of an outrageously busy month.  I've gone somewhere every weekend, visiting friends before I leave in September, so there's lots to tell and catch up on.

On August 2nd, Ivan and I hopped a train at about noon, destination: Nové Zámky, Slovakia.  Nové Zámky is a small town in southwestern Slovakia close to the Hungarian border and birthplace of Mr. Ivan Vogel himself.  After an easy two-hour train-ride, we rolled into Nové Zámky, which means "New Castles," and arrived at his home to be greeted by his sister, Katka, and mother, who awaited us with a feast.

As you know, the Czech Republic and Slovakia were joined from 1918-1993 as one country, Czechoslovakia.  The Czech and Slovak cultures are similar, and the languages are about 80% the same (more or less).  There are small changes, but a Czech and a Slovak can converse normally with next to no misunderstandings, much like an American and a Brit.  It's natural for Czechs and Slovaks, but for a Czech-speaking American not so much.  I came prepared with a cheat-sheet filled with Slovak conjugations and verb tenses, so I was ready to go.  I had a great time talking to Ivan's family in a crazy Slovak-Czech-German-English-French-Latin combination.  His parents also speak some Hungarian, so they tried to teach me some words, which I failed pitifully at.

On Thursday afternoon, Ivan, his mom, his sister, and I piled into the car and headed to Kolárovo, a small town close to Nové Zámky.  Kolárovo is home to the longest covered wooden bridge in Europe, and really reminded me of old New England covered bridges.  We walked around there for a bit, and then headed back to Nové Zámky, where Dr. Vogel, Ivan's father, was waiting for us.  We spent the night on their deck, eating and chatting, and I met one of Ivan's friends, Marek.
The wooden bridge in Kolárovo.
The wooden bridge in Kolárovo.
On Friday morning, Ivan, Katka, and I set out for one of the places I was most excited for: Esztergom, Hungary.  Esztergom is a small city in Hungary on the border with Slovakia, to the point that a bridge straddling the Danube links Slovakia and Hungary, with Štúrovo (Slovakia) on one side and Esztergom (Hungary) on the other.  Esztergom is the birthplace of St. Stephen, the patron of Hungary, and houses an enormous basilica on the site of the home where he was born.  We arrived in Esztergom and took a stroll across the bridge back to Slovakia, which was pretty awesome.  For those keeping score, that means I've officially walked from Switzerland to Liechtenstein, Austria to Slovenia, and now Hungary to Slovakia.  After a sufficient number of pictures on the border, we made the climb up to the basilica, which was massive and very nice.  After climbing all the way up to the dome and finding it difficult to believe that I was staring at two different countries, we headed back down and sauntered on back to Slovakia.
The bridge connecting Slovakia and Hungary (from the Hungarian side).
Ivan and Katka on the Hungarian side with the Slovak border behind them.
Katka and me on the Hungarian side with the Slovak border behind us.
The Basilica.
The coronation of St. Stephen.
The location of St. Stephen's home.
The Basilica.
From the dome of the basilica, left: Hungary | Danube | right: Slovakia.
We left Hungary and stopped at a small village, Belá, which is known for its chateau, which is now an incredible hotel and winery.  While pretending to live the high life (although life's not too shabby, let's be honest), we walked around the gardens and escaped the oppressive heat for a little while on some benches under a weeping willow.  After that, we headed back up to Nové Zámky, where we of course had a kebab for lunch.  Ivan and I then spent the afternoon on a (sand!) beach alongside the Váh River, a tributary to the Danube, with his friends Marek and Linda, which was great.  That evening, Marek and Linda came over to watch the Olympics and play some foosball.
The chateau in Belá.
Ivan and Katka cooling off under a willow tree.
After leisurely sleeping in on Saturday morning, Ivan, Katka, Mrs. Vogelová, and I piled into the car and headed in the direction of Podhájska.  Slovakia (and Hungary) are very well-known for their thermal baths and springs.  Podhájska is a pretty famous village close to Nové Zámky with a large thermal bath complex, so we stopped there for a few hours to take a dip, as temperatures were ridiculously high.  We tried all the different pools, from a standard chlorine pool at a nice cool temperature all the way to the 100°F natural springs.  Refreshed from swimming, we set out again for Banská Štiavnica, a truly medieval city located in some small mountains.  We walked around Štiavnica, strolled through the market on the main square, where Katka had a man free-hand carve her two small wooden hearts out of a regular chunk of wood, and then went up to the castle, where we could look down over the city.  It was a really beautiful little town.  We then jumped back in the car and headed for a town that we were actually unable to find.  Given Slovakia's location, though, it houses a few different monuments claiming to be the geographic center of Europe, depending on where you draw the line in Russia marking the end of Europe.  We weren't too far from one, and Ivan wanted to show it to me.  We were unfortunately unable to find the exit (or I should say, Ivan and his mom were unable to, Katka and I were busily asnooze in the backseat), and ended up stopping in Banská Bystrica instead, a fairly large city in the center of Slovakia, where we saw the Museum of the Slovak National Uprising.  Having crossed half of the country, we got back in the car and headed back to Nové Zámky, stopping along the way for some supplies for a cook-out.  Ivan grilled some pork, and I made the family and some of Ivan's friends true American burgers, which appeared to be a hit, despite the lack of French's mustard (but we did have Heinz ketchup).
One of the pools in Podhájska (yes, we went down the slide).
The main square in Banská Štiavnica.
The Castle in Banská Štiavnica.
Museum of the Slovak National Uprising in Banská Bystrica.
After sleeping in on Sunday, Ivan, Katka, and I once again set out to adventure.  What were we exploring, you ask?  We were in fact headed out to see Nové Zámky!  I had been there for three days, but still had yet to see much of the city (aside from the grocery store and quickly from the car).  We walked around the main square of the city, and they told me how the city was almost completely leveled in World War II.  When the Soviets arrived, they erected their lovely communist architecture, and so the center still has that feel to it a bit.  We wandered around some of the smaller side streets and saw various parks, and then headed back to their place for lunch.  In the evening, Ivan and I were picked up by Ivan's friend Mišo who also lives in Brno.  Our destination was Brno, but not without a stop in Bratislava, the capital.
The Main Square of Nové Zámky.
In Bratislava, we met Ľubo, another friend from my year in Austria, who now lives in Bratislava and works at Volkswagen.  We headed to Devin, a castle in Bratislava that sits alongside a tributary to the Danube.  On one side of the river is Austria, on the other side is the Czech Republic, and as you look at this scene, you're standing in Slovakia.  It was crazy to be looking at three countries at the same time.  Ivan and Ľubo also pointed out that if we had been able to go up to the castle (it was unfortunately closed since it was a Sunday evening), we would've been able to see Hungary, as well.  All in all, very crazy, but great to spend a little time in Bratislava and see Ľubo again.
Ivan, Ľubo, and me at Devin Castle in Bratislava, Slovakia, with Austria behind us and the Czech Republic to our left.
The following weekend, I caught the train to Prague on a whim, giving my friend JoEllen a brief head's-up that I was coming and going to spend the night on her couch.  I got to Prague, which was a welcome relief, as I hadn't been there in six months, which is hard to believe.  During my Fulbright year, I was in Prague usually two times a month, and I feel quite at home walking the streets there, taking the metro, etc.  It was really great to be there again, and I caught the tram out to Petřiny, the region of the city that JoEllen lives in with her boyfriend, Martin.  These names might be ringing a bell, and if so, check out my post about Thanksgiving.  We spent the afternoon just hanging out, watching the Olympics (JoEllen and I taking advantage of every opportunity to rub the medal count in Martin's face), and Martin cooked us dinner.  We then spent the evening in a pub in true Czech style.

On Sunday morning, JoEllen and I were up early to watch the Olympics while Martin slept.  Around lunchtime, I headed out into the city on my own, and I took the metro to Malá Strana.  I walked around that area of the city, traditionally home to famous Czech authors, then crossed Charles Bridge, which was a nightmare given the amount of tourists, and went up through the small streets to Old Town Square.  From there, I crossed over to Wenceslas Square and strolled over to the train station, eventually catching the train back to Brno.
Charles Bridge
Prague Castle
Old Town Square
The following weekend I then caught the train from Brno to Svitavy, and from Svitavy the bus to Linhartice, Libor's village.  Since I'm leaving in September, I wanted to make sure I saw his family before I left.  I was in Linhartice from Friday 'til Sunday, and it was nice to be there, a relief to be in a house again.  On Saturday, we rode our bikes to Vranová Lhota, which you might remember from my entry about Malta, and saw some more of Libor's family, including Martin, with whom I went to Malta.  It was nice to be there and hang out for a bit before I make the cross-continental move.

As many of you know, my cousin Maddie is currently studying in Copenhagen, Denmark, for the semester.  We've been chatting pretty much daily since she got to Europe a week ago, and she actually bought a ticket to Budapest from Malmö, Sweden, on a whim with a friend of hers who was in her grade in high school, coincidentally also studying in Copenhagen at the same university.  She asked me if I'd like to join, so of course I went to the train station right away to get my ticket!  I went to Budapest for five days while I was living in Austria, but that was already almost four years ago, which is hard to believe.  I was excited to get the chance to go back to Hungary, if only for a weekend.

While they flew to Hungary, getting there at about 4:30pm on Friday, I took the train, leaving at about 4:30pm.  My trains, coming from Poland and going to Hungary, were of course delayed, since these two countries for some reason can never have trains that actually run on time.  I ended up getting to Budapest about a half-hour late, around 9pm, and Maddie and Sean were there waiting for me at the train station.  We set out on the 25-minute walk to our hostel, located right in the center of the city, which was amazing.

After dropping our stuff at the hostel, we headed out.  It was already past 10pm, but I told them that if there's something they had to see immediately, it was the castle, Chain Bridge, the Danube, and Parliament lit up at night.  They were up for anything (or so they said), and we made a quick detour to St. Stephen's Basilica, the same St. Stephen who was born in Esztergom, which I visited with Ivan at the beginning of August.  We walked from the Basilica down to the Danube, crossed the Chain Bridge, and then walked around the Buda side of the city (since Budapest was originally two cities, Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube).  We crossed another bridge, came back to Pest, and wound our way to the hostel.  After a several mile walk, we were ready for bed.
St. Stephen's Basilica
Buda Castle
Chain Bridge
Parliament
Left: Parliament, Center: Buda Castle, Right: St. Matthias Church, Foreground: Danube
We were up early and ready to go on Saturday morning, and headed out first to the Basilica.  We went inside, which is absolutely beautiful, and went to an area of the basilica that I hadn't yet been to.  There we were able to see the reliquary housing the right hand of St. Stephen, more than a thousand years old.  It was both very cool and very disgusting.  After that, we climbed all the way to the dome of the basilica and, though I'm fairly certain they were ready to kill me, the views were well worth it.  From there, they were able to see just how big Budapest really is, and I was showed them our general route for the day.
Maddie and me on the dome of the basilica.
St. Stephen's Right Hand
After descending the 364 stairs, we headed south, finding Váci Útca, one of the main shopping streets of Budapest, which ends with the Great Market Hall, three stories of stalls selling various products.  We crossed the Danube around noon, beginning the hike to the top of the citadel in near-100°F weather.  Central Europe has been having a serious heatwave which finally broke today, but this weekend in Hungary was indeed a scorcher.  After dragging ourselves up to the top of the Citadel, we were once again rewarded with beautiful views of the city (and took the time to soak up some of the shade).  We were unfortunately unable to go from the Citadel directly to the Castle, but it did lead to the discovery of an outstanding Hungarian restaurant not too far from the castle.  While Sean and I had beef gulasch, like true Hungarians, Maddie had a salad and Hungarian soup.  Properly fed, we began the climb once again and headed up to Buda Castle, which is now home to the Hungarian National Gallery and Budapest History Museum.  We wandered around the National Gallery for a few hours, seeing various pieces by Hungarian painters, and then walked to St. Matthias Church and Fishermen's Bastion, which also look out over Pest and are beautiful.  From there, we descended again, crossed the Chain Bridge, and headed in the direction of Andrássy Útca.  Andrássy Útca is comparable to the Champs Elysées in Paris or 5th Avenue in NYC, and as we walked along the street filled with countless shops of important brands, Maddie scoffed at my lack of knowledge of the different names.  The most important find, though, was clearly the pizzeria I'd gone to the last time I was in Budapest which made one of the best pizzas I've ever had, and which is where we had dinner.  We kept strolling down Andrássy, seeing the Opera house as well as the former headquarters of the Nazi SS and then the Soviet KGB, now the Terror Museum, and finally came to Heroes' Square, a large square surrounded by museums.  Thoroughly tired and sweaty from walking all day, we went back to the pizzeria for dinner, then spent some time wandering around on the quest for ice cream before heading back to the hostel for a beer in the hostel bar.
From the Citadel, left: Buda, center: Chain Bridge spanning the Danube, right: Pest
Mads in Budapest!
Maddie and me
Buda Castle from the Citadel
St. Matthias Church
Fishermen's Bastion
The Opera
Heroes' Square
On Sunday morning, we headed out in the direction of the Jewish Quarter.  We visited the Great Synagogue, also known as the Dohány Synagogue, which is the largest synagogue in Eurasia and the second largest in the world, after a synagogue in New York.  I had never been in a synagogue before, so I was excited to see what it looked like on the inside in comparison to a church.  When we walked in, Sean and I were even given yarmulkes to wear.  It was very beautiful inside, and there was a small band playing classical music at the front, led by a boy who had to have been no more than nine years old on the piano.  After, we walked outside through the Memorial Garden, which is the site of 24 mass graves for 2,881 bodies found in the Jewish Ghetto following emancipation in 1945.  From there, we continued to wander the city a bit until I had to head to the train station to catch my train at 1:30.  The weekend in Budapest was an absolute blast, and I'm so glad that Maddie and Sean were able to come down here and get a little taste of Central Europe.  It's just a pity I won't be able to show them more of the area, like Vienna or Prague.  Oh well, there's always the future!
The Great Synagogue
Inside the Great Synagogue.
24 mass graves in the Memorial Garden of the Great Synagogue
Maddie and Sean with the princess.
My train out of Budapest was naturally late by about 25 minutes, and I was taking an earlier afternoon train so as to stop in Nové Zámky, which lies along the route from Budapest-Prague, so I could visit Ivan's family before I leave.  After finally arriving in Nové Zámky, Ivan and his father met me at the train station and we headed to their place, where Katka and Mrs. Vogelová were waiting.  After eating and chatting for an hour, Ivan and I headed back to the train station, where we killed an hour since our train was late by 75 minutes coming from Belgrade through Budapest.  The train finally came and we were able to make it back to Brno.

Now I'm just in Brno tying up loose ends and killing time until I head to Denmark on September 6th.  I'm taking the train through the night, so will arrive in Copenhagen at 10am on Friday, the 7th.  I'll be in Copenhagen for a few days before flying to Reykjavik, Iceland, and from there to Boston on September 10th.  It's sad to be leaving Europe, but at the same time, I'm getting excited to come home and see everyone (and eat!).

That's it for now, I'll keep you updated with what other adventures happen during my final days on this crazy continent...

Thursday, July 19, 2012

Malta: Between Europe and Africa

This is the story of two men who went to Malta, much like the Italian who went to Malta.  (If you don't know what that means, watch this video: The Italian Man Who Went to Malta)

Before the story of Malta begins, I must first tell you about my adventure to Vranová Lhota, a small village close to Moravská Třebová, Mohelnice, and Olomouc, in the heart of the Czech Republic.  This is the village where Martin, my fellow traveler, lives, and he invited me to Sraz Lhot a Lehôt 2012, or the Meeting of Lhotas and Lehôtas 2012.  The names Lhota (Czech) and Lehôta (Slovak) are very common names for villages, coming from the word lhůta, meaning a defined period of time, referring to the time in which the village needed to pay their resident lord.  Since there are so many Lhota villages (more than 300 in the Czech Republic alone), a tradition began in 1980 for a yearly meeting in one of the villages.  This year, Martin's village hosted, and so I went to partake in the festivities.

I arrived in Vranová Lhota on Wednesday night, before the main action really began.  We spent Thursday arranging the village's Zbrojnice, Armory/Firehouse, into a make-shift pub.  The celebrations began on Friday, and in the afternoon I partook in the Pohádkový Les, Fairy Tale Forest.  Czechs have an insane amount of fairy tales, many of which were then taken by the Germans and then came to the United States.  Many of the residents of Vranová Lhota, myself included, dressed up as various characters from Czech fairy tales.  I had the honor, alongside Martin, of being a fly.  Not kidding.  I was the male, he was the female, even wearing a skirt for it.  With Kasia, Libor's girlfriend, as our trusty cow, the two of us flew around and hopped on a heaping pile of styrofoam sh... At each fairy tale, the children who came through had to perform a task in order to get some candy or a stamp.  We were handing out candy, but in order to get it, they had to walk on stilts.  The two of helped them balance and taught them how to use the stilts, which was a lot of fun, despite the incredible heat and the fact that we were wearing tight, black clothes.  All in all, the Fairy Tale Forest was a great success.  On Saturday, we marched in a parade through the village, again dressed as flies, though this time my "wife" was Radim, Libor's older brother.  Sixty-two villages were present and announced as they entered the main area of the festival.  We were of course last and left baking under the hot sun.  The parade was followed by jumping in the pond, then enjoying concerts in the evening and fireworks.  The meeting officially ended on Saturday, because of which we spent Sunday cleaning, and then Monday preparing for our trip.


Zbrojnice, the village armory, which we turned into a pub.
Czechs don't mess around.
All the partakers dressed for the Fairy Tale Forest after the parade.
Martin and I spent Monday, the 9th, in Mohelnice, a small city close to Vranová Lhota, gathering the final necessary items for our trip (bandages, exchanging money, etc.).  We fined-tuned the details in the evening, then went to bed with the alarm set for 5:15, so as to have enough time to drive to Mohelnice and catch the train at 6:30, destination: Poland.

Malta is a small country in the south of the Mediterranean.  It's composed predominantly of three islands, Malta, Gozo, and Comino, though there are also smaller islands surrounding it.  Malta and Gozo are inhabited, Comino is not.  It has a population of only about 450,000, and covers an area slightly larger than Boston.  Its capital city is Valletta, located on Malta, though Victoria (Ir-Rabat) functions as the capital city of Gozo, which is about a third of the size of Malta.  Malta was once a British colony, though after World War II was granted independence.  It is still a member of the British Commonwealth, and is officially a bilingual nation, speaking Maltese (a combination of Italian and Arabic) and English.  The English spoken on Malta is perfect, though slightly different from what we speak.  The accent, though, is absolutely hilarious.  Imagine a Swede trying to imitate a Jamaican and there you have it.  Since they were once part of Britain, the Maltese drive opposite of us, which caused for some confusion during the first few days of our trip.

Arrows pointing to the Czech Republic and to Malta.
For some of you, this might be the first time you've heard of Malta.  It's not a very well-known country, though I've never been to a place with a greater mix of nationalities.  While we were there, there seemed to be a competition between the Germans and Italians to see who could have the tightest clothes, the French were constantly complaining about something or other, the Spanish were screaming at everything, and the Russians just kept to themselves while the Scandinavians whispered in the background.  Enter Martin and me, the Czech and the American.

My interest in Malta was first peaked after seeing my favorite movie, Gladiator.  Believe it or not, you've actually seen Malta in many movies.  Gladiator was filmed there, along with Casino Royale, The Count of Monte Cristo, The Da Vinci Code, Munich, and Troy, among others.  I read about Malta in high school and was intrigued by the country where Europe meets Africa, where the West meets the Middle East, where Arabic and Italian combined into one language.  Martin and I were able to find cheap flights from Wrocław, Poland, and our decision was made.

We woke up on Tuesday, the 10th, at 5:15.  Martin's father drove us to Mohelnice, and from there we caught the train up to Wrocław.  The ride took about four and a half hours, and we arrived in Wrocław at about 11am.  We headed towards the center to see the main square, but all in all, Wrocław wasn't anything special in my opinion.  This year, Poland and the Ukraine co-hosted the EuroCup, a soccer tournament like the World Cup, though only for Europe.  Wrocław was one of the host cities, but in true Polish style did not complete its reconstructions in time, so the train station is still under construction, though the EuroCup has come and gone.  We headed down the streets lined with run-down, communist-era buildings, but finally arrived on the main square, which was beautiful.  In the middle of the main square was a small cluster of buildings with small courtyards and full of different shops and restaurants.  We did a quick spin of the main square, along with a secondary square, then began the trek to the airport.  We decided that since we had about five hours until our flight took off, we'd walk for a bit and enjoy the sunny day.  After about an hour and a half of walking, we decided to hop on one of the buses (without a ticket, no less), and ride the last few stops to the airport.
6:15 in the morning and ready to go!
Train station in Wrocław, Poland.
Me on the Main Square in Wrocław.
Martin in Wrocław.
Lunch at a bus stop.
We got to the airport, checked in, went through security, and it was all systems go!
To Malta we go.
We arrived in Malta at about 8pm, where the sun was already close to set.  On the plane-ride down, I had the window seat, Martin in the middle, and by chance I happened to glance out the window right as we reached the northern tip of Italy and the Adriatic Sea.  We watched as we flew along the East Coast of Italy, crossing the Dolomiti Mountains to the West Coast.  Martin asked me, "Do you think we'll see Rome?"  I glanced out the window and said, "I hope so.  Hey, look!  That city down there has something like a Colosseum."  He leaned over and looked, then said, "That part right there looks like the Vatican."  We looked at each other, shocked, and said, "It's Rome!"  We then watched as we flew over Naples, Capri, and Sorento, finally crossing the sea to Sicily and then landing on Malta.
Rome from the sky!
We're on Malta!
As we climbed down the staircase onto the runway, we were hit with a wave of humidity.  Martin gagged.  I smiled.  Finally, I could breathe.  We headed out of the airport after grabbing two maps of the country, found the road we wanted, where we got our first taste of the opposite Maltese driving, and headed south.  We walked as far as the Blue Grotto, a major tourist destination, which we somehow managed not to visit our entire time on Malta, and accomplished our main goal for the first night of seeing the Mediterranean.  We then started searching for a place to sleep, and finally found a nice boulder at a downward slant to sleep on outside the city of Żurrieq.  We spent the night slowly sliding down the boulder in our sleeping bags, being bitten by mosquitoes, and trying to get comfortable.  What we awoke to, though, was well worth it, as our view was of the Mediterranean, on the other side of which lay Libya, though unfortunately out of sight.
Our view from our first campsite, facing Libya.
Rise and shine, Martin!
Maltese countryside...brown.
A small cove close to where we slept.
We set out walking, trying to find a supermarket so we could buy some food and more importantly water.  We walked from Żurrieq to Siġġiewi, a small city still in the south, and finally found a place to buy some supplies, stop, and sit.  From here, we kept walking to Żebbuġ, from which we caught the bus.  The buses in Malta are a completely different story, one that I'll save for later.  They are, however, air-conditioned, and given that it was 9am and already in the high 90s, we decided to soak up the cold.  We took the bus as far as Valletta, the capital city, where we hopped out and got our first taste of Maltese civilization.
Main square of Siġġiewi
Church in Siġġiewi.
The bus station in Malta opens onto Triq Ir-Repubblika, or Street of the Republic.  It's the major road that runs straight down the center of Valletta.  The entire city of Valletta is one giant fortress, much like the Maltese islands.  High walls surround the cities, and there are buildings everywhere, as the original inhabitants had limited area to work with.  We walked down Triq Ir-Repubblika all the way to the end, wondering why there were massive (at least two times bigger than us) statues of the saints and especially Mary everywhere.  There were also streamers and banners hanging everywhere, and we tried to decide if a celebration were coming or had already passed.  With time and as my understanding of Maltese increased (somehow I managed to actually figure out some of their crazy language), I decoded that it was all in preparation for celebrations for Mt. St. Carmel, believe it or not!  There's even a church in Valletta dedicated to Mt. St. Carmel!  The city was beautiful and its beauty increased as more decorations were arranged in the coming days.  We walked all the way to the end, which is where you find Fort St. Elmo, a massive fortress on the tip of the peninsula of Valletta, shooting out in the sea, dividing the sea into harbors.  To the left, across the Marsamxett Harbour lies Sliema, another city, and to the right lies the Grand Harbour with Vittoriosa on the other side.
Neptune Fountain, the center of the bus station in Valletta.
Triq Ir-Repubblika, Street of the Republic, Valletta.
Maltese flag and the EU flag.
Church in Valletta.
British phone-booths are still all over the country.
Grand Harbour, looking towards Vittoriosa from Valletta.
Us at the Grand Harbour.
Grand Harbour, looking out into the Mediterranean.
We turned to the right and walked along the fort to the Grand Harbour, where we climbed up on a monument for World War II to get a view of everything.  Malta had a very tricky role in World War II, as it was still a British colony at the time, though lies just a 30-minute flight from Italy.  When Italy declared war on the Allies, Malta went into panic and lock-down, as they were basically a sitting duck of the British navy. Malta successfully fought off countless Italian attacks, thus one of the reasons for the great diving off the coasts of Malta, where you can find planes, boats, and submarines, and because of their valor, they were granted independence from Britain by King George.
World War II memorial.
We walked back up through Valletta, seeing the Presidential Palace, and then hopped on the bus to Sliema, one of the neighboring cities.  We decided to spend the night in a hostel, mostly to be able to shower, and we found a place to stay.  After that, we headed for the beach, where Martin immediately stepped on a sea urchin, forcing me to perform some surgery on his heel using tweezers and a safety pin, but all in all, it was a great first day.
Martin with Manoel Island behind him.
Me with Manoel Island.
Presidential Palace.
Water polo pools were everywhere.
Sunset over Sliema.
The next day, we left the hostel, took the bus to Valletta, and headed south to Birżebbuġa, where we saw our first sandy beach of the trip.  Maltese beaches are literally boulders, as the islands are almost entirely solid rock.  We then found a supermarket on the side of the road, where we had a quick lunch, and spent about an hour and a half exposed in the sun in temperatures higher than 100°F waiting for the buses.  Again, Maltese buses are a blessing and a nightmare.  We finally caught the bus back to Valletta, where we then transferred to another bus to Buġibba, a city on the north side of the island.  There we swam (Martin bought himself a snorkel and mask) and relaxed for a bit among a contingent of French people, then walked to St. Paul's, which is connected to Buġibba.  In the Bible, there's the story of St. Paul being shipwrecked on Malta.  The belief is that he was shipwrecked on a small island off the coast of Buġibba, because of which the bay is called St. Paul's, and a small city housing a church in his honor is there.  We walked by the church, which had quotes from the Bible engraved on the sides in countless languages, and then stopped at a small restaurant for a pizza and to sample the local beer.  Now, Martin is Czech, so he is a natural beer connoisseur.  After living here for the short period I have (almost two years, in fact), I have also gotten a taste for the different types of beers.  Maltese beer is horrible.  I have never had a worse beer in my life.  It might as well have been water.  We were highly disappointed.
The beach called "Pretty Bay" in Birżebbuġa
Typical Maltese boat.
Church in Birżebbuġa.
We ate lunch sitting on a wall next to a vineyard with a cactus right behind us.
Buġibba
Maltese beach in Buġibba.
Sunset over St. Paul's Bay.
Bible quotes on the wall of the Church of St. Paul.
Maltese cross.
Church of St. Paul, Buġibba.
St. Paul's Island
Buġibba
Maltese beer = thumbs down.
Why, God, why?!
Gross.
After our gastronomical set-back, we caught the bus to Ċirkewwa, the northernmost city on Malta.  We had planned to spend the night there, but instead caught the last ferry of the day to Gozo, about a 10-minute ride.  Once on Gozo, we caught the bus all the way to the north to the city of Marsalforn, where we found a comfortable place to sleep on a steppe outside the city facing Sicily.

Neeear, faaar, whereeeever you aaare...
Looking towards Sicily.
Marsalforn from our campsite.
Our hotel.
I think I'm going to send this to my dentist.
We awoke after the best night's sleep yet and set out to explore Marsalforn.  From there, we caught the bus down to Victoria (Ir-Rabat), the central city and capital of Gozo.  We walked around the city, which was also decorated for Mt. St. Carmel, and explored the citadel, which offered views of the entire island.  We then caught the bus to the Ta' Pinu Basilica, which is a basilica standing alone in the middle of the countryside, removed from everything and looming above the closest city.  Afterwards, we headed to the Azur Window on the west side of the island, a massive natural structure that was absolutely beautiful.  We spent time playing on the rocks there with the enormous waves crashing, and then even climbed up on top of the Azur Window itself (despite the signs proclaiming it as being illegal and dangerous).
Victoria, Gozo.
Banners for Mt. St. Carmel.
Cathedral on the Citadel.
Gozo, looking towards Marsalforn from the Citadel.
Victoria, Gozo.
The Citadel.
Victoria, Gozo.
Me on the Citadel in Victoria.
Namesake.
Maltese grocery store.
Ta' Pinu Basilica.
Ta' Pinu Basilica.
Azur Window.
Me at the Azur Window.
Martin
Martin playing in the waves.
Me after getting hit by a wave.
Me on top of the Azur Window in the middle.
Martin on the edge of the Azur Window.
Martin aka Superman on top of the Azur Window.
The Azur Window was incredible and beautiful, and we spent a while there just exploring.  There's also a small lake on one side of it, one side of which leads to a cave system which comes out on the far side of the Azur Window.  We didn't go in, though, as you need a boat, and we didn't want to pay for one.  We once again returned to Victoria, from which we headed to the southwest corner of the island to the town of Xlendi.  There we took a quick swim in some seriously rough water, and as the sun set, we headed up into the surrounding cliffs.  We explored the area as dusk settled in, which seemed to be a farming area, probably used in winter as the temperatures are then much more normal than what we were experiencing.  There were small two, three, sometimes even four-walled structures, some containing tools, and we found a two-walled structure where we decided to spend the night.  The wind was blowing hard, but the walls protected us and kept us cool.  We were far enough from all the cities that the sky was incredible, we saw so many shooting stars, satellites, and pointed out the constellations to each other.  We slept facing Africa, this time Tunisia, and woke with the ocean at our feet.
Xlendi, Gozo.
Sunset in Xlendi.
Sunset from the Xlendi cliffs.
Martin sitting looking towards Africa (Tunisia).
Our camp.
The view over the wall of our camp.
Since it was already hot, we knew we had to get underway fast to avoid the heavy heat of the day.  We had chosen this day as our beach day, our day off.  We walked to the city of Sannat, about a half-hour from where we'd slept, and from there caught the bus into Victoria.  From Victoria, we went up to the northeast side of the island to Ramla Bay.  Ramla Bay is a sandy beach, the reason we chose to go there.  We spent many hours there, just lying on the beach, reading, swimming in the warm water which was salty enough that you barely had to tread to stay afloat.  It was a necessary day of pure relaxation and enjoying being on the beach.  All good things come to an end, though, and around dinnertime we packed up and caught the bus back to Victoria, then transferred to another bus to Mġarr, from which we took the ferry back to Malta as darkness set in.  We hiked up into the hills above the harbor, which were once again covered with the two, three, sometimes four-walled structures, and settled in for a night looking at Comino and Gozo.

Church in Sannat, Gozo.
Ramla Bay, Gozo.
Me in the water at Ramla Bay.
Ramla Bay, Gozo.

Martin giving the thumbs up as the ferry pulled away from Gozo.
Our last night camping.
Our view of Comino and Gozo.
In the morning, we caught the bus all the way back to St. Julian's, a city next to Sliema, where we had previously stayed in a hostel.  We had booked a hostel for our last two nights, and were staying in Paċeville, which we came to find out was the center of nightlife on Malta.  In other words, it was where the Spanish spent the night screaming as loud as they possibly could.  We were better off sleeping outside.  We found our hostel, checked in, got to our room, which even had a balcony, and after spending the middle of the day napping to avoid the intense heat, set out again.  We went to Valletta to take a new bus, this time to Mosta.  In Mosta, we visited the enormous rotunda, which was beautiful.  In World War II, a bomb was dropped on it and crashed through it, but never exploded, so the rotunda was saved.  We then caught the bus to Rabat, a city close to Mosta, from which we walked across the empty moat and into the fortress city of Mdina.  Mdina is famous for its glassblowing, and so we, the two bulls that we are, entered the china shop.  Martin successfully navigated both floors without a problem.  I, however, managed to nearly wipe out down the staircase and thankfully an Australian girl was there to catch my arm.  After that, we decided to leave and continue exploring Mdina.  We came to the edge of the city, which was on the edge of a cliff with a massive wall leading to a shear drop.  From there, we could see the entire island of Malta.  The views of the cities with the Mediterranean in the background were incredible.  It really is a beautiful place.  We then headed back to Valletta, switched buses to Sliema, where we got dinner and ate on the boulder beach watching the boats, then went back to St. Julian's to enjoy an evening of sitting on our balcony.
Rotunda, Mosta.
Rotunda, Mosta.
Interior of the Rotunda, Mosta.
Interior of the Rotunda, Mosta.
Namesake.
Rotunda, Mosta.
Crossing the bridge into the fortress/city of Mdina.
Mdina.
Church in Mdina.
Mdina.
Looking at Mosta and the Rotunda from Mdina.
St. Julian's and Sliema from Mdina.
Maltese and English.
Looking towards Valletta from Mdina.
We sat on the rocks in Sliema and ate dinner watching the boats.
Sunset over Sliema and St. Julian's.
After sleeping in on the comforts of a bed, we dragged ourselves out into town and went for a quick dip at the beach down the street from our hostel.  We then headed to Valletta, with a quick stop to try to visit the fortress on Manoel Island, located inbetween Sliema and Valletta, but it was unfortunately closed.  We continued to Valletta, where the banners and decorations for Mt. St. Carmel were absolutely incredible.  There we visited the War Museum, where we learnt a lot about Malta's role in both World Wars, which was quite interesting due to its precarious location and ties to Britain.  We then wandered through the shops, buying ourselves some souvenirs, and then headed back to St. Julian's, with a stop in Sliema to stock up for our feast.  Since it was our last night, we bought ourselves some beers and a bunch of food, ready to settle in for a relaxing final evening sitting on the balcony watching the Spanish make fools of themselves.
Walking down Triq Ir-Repubblika, Street of the Republic, Valletta.
St. George's Cross, bestowed upon Malta by the English King when he granted their freedom following WW II.
Valletta.
Church in Valletta.
Library in Valletta.
A store in Valletta.
Funny sign outside a shop.
Last night on Malta, can't you tell?
The view from our balcony: the "Empire State Building," as Martin called it.
View from our balcony looking at Paċeville.
Our tiny balcony.
For our final day in Malta, we woke up at 7:30 to walk down to the beach for one final swim in the Mediterranean.  The water was cooler in the morning, but that didn't stop us.  We then packed our bags, bid farewell to the cities, and climbed aboard the bus, airport bound.  We got to the airport 40 minutes late due to the wonder that are Maltese buses, but with plenty of time to spare.  We boarded our flight, and two and a half hours later landed in Poland, where we promptly froze, having gone from weather in the 100s to weather in the 50s.  After a quick dinner in Wrocław, we caught the train to Katowice, a city in the south of Poland, where one of Martin's friends picked us up and drove us to Ostrava, where Martin studies.  On Wednesday, Martin and I took the train to Olomouc, where his father picked us up, then drove us to Brno.

Malta International Airport.
Misson: Success.
I hope you've read up to here.  Now I'll explain just some of the fine points of Malta.  First of all, if we talk about how things look, it can be summed up with the word brown.  The sun is so strong that everything is just quite simply burnt.  The landscape is brown, almost desert-like, and the islands are solid stone, which is why there are many quarries around the islands.  The lowest temperature we felt was probably about 90°F in the shade, and walking around in the sun all day every day was enough to drain the energy right from us.  We both fell asleep nearly every time we took the bus, which was thankfully air-conditioned, or we would sit for a while under a tree or once even at a restaurant and fell asleep at the table.  The water is beautifully warm, as well as really salty, which makes swimming there easy.  Compared to jumping in the mighty Atlantic, swimming in Malta is like taking a bath.

The Maltese are an interesting people.  There are two types of people that we noticed: half of the Maltese are very dark and look to be of Arab or Northern African origin.  The other half are very pale white and fair, clearly an influence from the English past.  This division is sometimes startling to see, but Malta is the place where Europe, Africa, and the Middle East meet, so it makes sense.  The Maltese language is very sing-songy, and is the major reason for the Maltese (Swedo-Jamaican) accent in English.  Their English, though, is impeccable, as nearly all signs are in English, and they also have all subjects in school (with the exception of Maltese) in English.  The Maltese, however, are swindlers.  Martin and I quickly realized we had to pay very close attention any time we handled money.  They are quick with the slight of hand, and if they can trick you, they will.  I was once given a 20 cent coin instead of a 50 cent coin (Malta uses the Euro), which look very similar, though the 50 is slightly larger.  Having lived in Austria and used the Euro, I immediately felt the difference in the coin, and I pointed this out to the shopkeeper who had a whole list of reasons and apologies ready.  Martin was once given one Euro short in his change by a different man, and when he pointed this out to the worker, the same slew of apologies and reasons were offered, making us raise our eyebrows.  We stayed at two hostels during the trip, and the first one was a rip-off in several ways.  The biggest, though, was that we paid two Euro for breakfast.  We were given voucher tickets and told that breakfast would be served from 8 to 9:30.  We were there at 8:15 and waited until 9:30.  Not a single person came, and the reception of the hostel wasn't open, so there was no one to ask.  Fed up, we finally just left.  Thus, while I enjoyed being able to use normal English with the Maltese, not the horrible excuse for English spoken on the European continent, it did get frustrating having to pay constant attention to all monetary matters.

The biggest difference we saw was in public transport.  Maltese buses run very differently than European buses.  European public transport is most always quite precise.  Czech public transport is notoriously precise.  Maltese public transport is the polar opposite.  If the driver did not feel like stopping the bus, despite people waiting at a bus stop, he simply would not stop.  Bus schedules are more of a suggestion, as the electronic tables constantly change the times that a bus will come.  Sometimes it will say a bus is coming in five minutes.  Five minutes later, that same bus is not scheduled to arrive for another 43 minutes.  There is no logic in it, and you have to hope you're in the right place at the right time.  The best advantage, though, and the reason we took the bus everywhere, was that buses were cheap (€2.60) and air-conditioned.  The drivers, though, are absolute maniacs.  Since Malta and Gozo are small islands, the streets are understandably quite small and narrow, even by European standards.  The buses barrel down the streets at high speeds, whipping around corners, beeping their horns ahead of time to warn any potential pedestrians.  We never ate before getting on the bus, as we were jostled around so much during the ride that we would've lost our food.

The best bus story comes from our last day on Malta.  As I said, we were 40 minutes late in arriving at the airport.  We came to the bus stop close to our hostel 15 minutes ahead of the scheduled departure of the bus.  The bus stop was located halfway down a hill, with a four-way intersection at the top of the hill.  As we watched, a bus broke down in the middle of the intersection.  Instead of kicking it into neutral and coasting down the hill to the bus stop out of the way, the driver instead got out, closing the doors behind him, not allowing the passengers to get out.  He then waited while at least six other buses from the four different directions all followed suit and came to join him in the middle of the intersection so as to discuss their plan of attack.  If one intersection in one city is clogged, it affects the traffic of the rest of the country (yes, country), and thus there were lines of cars backed up in all directions.  The Maltese also have an affinity for beeping their horns nonstop.  They mostly do it to warn pedestrians to get out of the way when approaching a crosswalk or corner, but they also do it to show their frustration.  Thus, you can imagine countless cars all laying on their horns for many minutes while this group of bus drivers nonchalantly discussed the bus' engine in the middle of the intersection.  Don't forget, either, that all the passengers in the buses were roasting, as the air-conditioning was turned off.  Martin and I just stood there laughing while they tried to solve this problem for at least 25 minutes.  They finally got the bus started and underway, our bus came, and we were able to head to the airport.

Overall, the trip was a great success.  It was an entirely new culture, way of life, climate, etc.  We both had a really great time, and I enjoyed traveling with Martin.  We speak to each other predominantly in Czech, though from time to time in German and English.  Czech allowed us the great advantage of being to talk about anything without the people around us understanding a word, which was a lot of fun.  I'm glad that we went, and I'm looking forward to my next great adventure!